Agave Pattern Hack: Ankle-Tie Pants, Part 2
In this post, we’ll continue sewing the Agave Pants ankle-tie hack using the Agave Pants / Shorts Pattern.
We sewed all of the details of the Pants Front and Pants Back pieces in Part 1, and now we’re ready to sew the crotch seam. I’ll be using French seams for this step and the inseams, but you can use any method you like.
If you aren’t using a seam finish that encloses the edges, you will start with finishing the center front and center back edges.
As with Part 1, you’ll want to have your Agave pattern instructions handy for more detailed written descriptions of the steps.
When you sew French seams, you sew the seam in two steps: first with wrong sides together and then again with the wrong sides together.
Start by pinning the Pants Front pieces together, matching notches, and do the same with the Pants Backs. Sew the first line of stitching 1/4” (6.5mm) from the edge. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8” (3mm) to prevent any stray threads coming through the seam when you sew the second step.
Turn the Pants Fronts and Pants Backs so that the wrong sides are together and press the seams. Pin in place and then sew the second seam with a 3/8” (9.5mm) seam allowance. Press to set your stitches and then press the seam allowances to one side. (Steps 10-12)
I chose to use a French seam that is really easy to sew for this sewalong. If you want your French seam to be smaller, you can sew use a 7/16” (11mm) seam allowance for your first line of stitching, then trim it to 1/8” (3mm). Turn and press your fabric to stitch second stitch line 3/16” (5mm) from the edge. Any combination that adds up to 5/8” (16mm) will work as long as you trim your seam allowance after the first step so that the edge is completely enclosed when you sew the second line of stitching.
Next, we’ll prep the waistbands and attach the ties (if you’re using ties). I’m adding ties to my back waistband and using snaps to hold the front waistband in place with no ties.
Mark 3/8” (9.5mm) from the bottom edge on the Front Waistband and Back Waistband pieces that have interfacing. Fold the 3/8” (9.5mm) to the wrong side and press. (Step 13)
Pin the Front Waistbands with right sides together and do the same for the Back Waistbands.
Sew the waistbands together.
If you are adding ties to a waistband, sew the seam all the way to the edge. For waistbands without ties, stop 5/8” (16mm) from the edge at both ends.
Sew the waistbands insides (the pieces with interfacing) to their matching outside piece (no interfacing). Backstitch at both ends.
Grade the seams of both waistbands and then turn them so that the wrong sides are together. Press the seams. (Steps 15 & 16)
For a waistband with ties, open the waistband and lay it down with the right side up. Line up the notches on the ties and waistband and pin the ties in place with right sides together.
Sew the ties to the waistband and then press the seams open. (Step 17)
Fold the ties so that the right sides are together and pin. Sew along the short and long unfinished edges, then trim the seam allowances and corners. (Steps 18-19)
Turn & press waistband ties.
Use a point turner to get clean, crisp corners. I love my set of Dritz tube turners for turning ties and straps.
After you turn and press the waistbands with ties (Step 19), they are ready to be attached to the Pants Back. The waistbands without ties don’t require and additional prep prior to attaching them to the Pants Front.
In the next part of the sewalong, we’ll start with attaching both waistbands, use French seams for the inseams, then move on to the cuffs.